Saturday, September 18, 2010

South Africa 2010 continued

I finally got to see Africa Wild dogs, which I've wanted to see for a long time. They are no relation (or very distant, anyway) to Toby, and though they are vicious pack killers they are harmless to people, and very handsome and rare animals. They even barked at me! Other new animals in the south were cheetah and leopard (both seen on game drives), many more lion, and bushpig, normally nocturnal!
A group of us had a very amusing encounter with lion, from the vehicle this time: we were driving to drop people off for walks when a ranger with us spotted lion on the top of a roadcut just beside us. All we could see from our angle was a pair of ears and eyes of a female. While we were all jockeying for position to try to get pictures, suddenly there was a roar and a previously unseen male rushed up to the edge of the bluff in full charge mode- he stopped short and looked down, saw us, looked shocked and abashed and bolted. "Boo!!" We all laughed, which I'd like to think embarrassed him even more.
We also got to see a lioness chase a herd of buffalo into an ambush. There were other lions all set up, and her job was to herd the buffalo into the trap, which she did very effectively. Unluckily (or not!), we could only hear the anguished cry of the victim, but couldn't see through the bush.
One of the last nights we had a "braai" (a barbeque) with all of our field rangers. They were all Zulu, and most spoke little to no English. They are a very superstitious people, and somehow manage to combine Christianity (thanks to the missionaries), ancestor worship, witchcraft and worship of a prophet named Ushembe, who one ranger told me is the god of the black people.
I was also told by a ranger that they are very good at killing people, and that they can direct thunder and lightning to harm anyone they choose. They practice polygamy, and a ranger named Blessing explained it by telling me that "you can't expect a car to run without a spare tire!".

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